2 Sep 2010
Back to the Black!
This week, Seven Seas Mariner has been sailing the Black Sea and its’ sure great to get back here, especially because we’re sailing an itinerary that is still somewhat off the beaten path! In all my years of cruising this is only the fourth time I have been able to do this itinerary but the last time was 1989! Yes, I am dating myself. I use to be the young CD now I’m the old one… Anyway, enough lamenting.
This part of the world was a whole lot different back then as these stops were mostly considered Russia and everything else was part of the Eastern Communistic Block. Back then everything was drab and rundown. The people wouldn’t smile and life was very difficult. But now the change I see is amazing! The cities have been, spackled, painted and are vibrant with a whole new skyline. Plus, the citizens actually own cars now – most are much more fancy than my own – darn it! Come to think of it I guess I really do have to start thinking about ditching my old Suby – got to keep up with the Ukrainians, you know. There certainly is a lot of physical beauty in these places, especially in the Balkan woman (Thank you Dana for your understanding! She let me off with only one night on the couch).
I remember way back when, that I brought my mother here and at the end of the tour she liked one of our guides so much my Mom gave her lipstick and the woman actually cried! Often I think of how far these people (and especially the Chinese) have come in my lifetime. The change in the standard of living has truly been remarkable. Good for them!
First stop in the Black Sea was Constanta, Romania – Named after the Roman Emperor Constantine. The Romans use to be all over these places. However, millenniums later, not only was Romania for a long time greatly “influenced”, let’s say, by the Russians, they suffered greatly at the hands of one of the least educated and worst or the worst dictators in Nicolae Ceausescu. We learned a lot about him and his crazy policies on our tour which put this country 20-30 years behind all the others in this area. Because he was uneducated he resented those who were, as they were considered a threat. This rings eerily familiar to Mao Tse-Tung’s Cultural Revolution.
The downtown area is very run down but is certainly far better off than it was in the 80’s. Then it was scary – real scary. Now there are many nice outdoor eating establishments, wineries and museums etc. But here is a country that geographically was just in the wrong place at the wrong time, but has now turned the corner and is moving on up. Though it has a long way to go, Dana and I found it most interesting. We escorted a group on tour in the afternoon and visited some museums and a winery that included a performance of local folkloric dancing. We are so glad we got to go and our guide was great!
This reminds me that just last voyage we made a half day call at Sarande, Albania. It was the same day after our morning call at Corfu as it is situated just across the Adriatic Sea, some 17 nautical miles away. Why I mention it is because in many ways you can draw comparisons between there and Constanta. Sarande’s buildings aren’t necessarily falling down, theirs were just never completed. Hundreds of them, homes and high rises are just shells of buildings as everyone lost their financing years ago. The town is much smaller than Constanta and resembles it, minus the glitz and glitter! There was a time change between Greece and Albania. It was just one hour ahead on my Giorgio watch and another 20-30 years back on my Gregorian calendar. I remember very well in the late 1990’s when many of it’s citizens wanted to desperately to flee from the violence and would attempt to swim or float across the channel. In the less patrolled areas it was about 70 miles wide. Every day the Greek and Italian patrol boats would have to pick them up and force them to return.
Now, I don’t know if Albania will be on our future itineraries because we did take a lot of complaints about it. Yet, I have to say we also took many compliments, but not nearly as many of those. But by human nature negativity is normally more outspoken. My feeling is, however, how many westerners have ever had a convenient opportunity to visit Albania? Google it and read some of its’ history. Nobody reading this blog will ever plan there next vacation there – maybe your great grand kids someday. Although, certain peoples do vacation there and the beach was narrow but looked fine. But again, here is a country, like Romania, with a tragic history, who has suffered through loads of challenges over the last many decades. Yet we, the fortunate few, had the chance to lift the veil and peek in to see what life is like there and I am so glad we did! Even though I just had time enough to step ashore to walk the waterfront and chat with a few locals it was well worth it!
Albania has also turned the corner and is now moving in the right direction. Sure, it too has a long way to go, even further than Romania, I believe. But I just felt lucky to see it as it is…The real deal. No commercialism. No golden arches. Real people selling trinkets to their tourists – who are buying stuff that our tourists would never be interested in.
After all, isn’t there is a lot more to cruising than just visiting all the big and pretty tourist sights. Seeing how the people live and listening to what they have to say and then being able to ask questions about it…to me, that’s the best part of travelling! Personally, I congratulate my company for stepping up and casting there support for Albania. I’m sure some of those people who were sitting on the beach watching our tender boats shuttle our guests ashore off this magnificent white beauty must have felt some pride in that not only are they are no longer isolated from the world but that the world is starting to take notice and come to them.
My hope is that someday I get another chance to visit there and see how they’re progressing! After all, I remember what the Ukraine and China (and others) use to look like. I wish the Albanians good fortune!













































































































































































































































