This morning we helped get 400 guests off the ship and out on tour and then got some more work done before our 10:15am weekly boat drill. Then we headed out via the shuttle to get into the city of Takoradi in order to find a taxi who would take us to the city of Elmina to visit Fort St. George, which is where thousands upon thousands of slaves were trafficked to Europe and America, during a 250 year period from the 15th-17th centuries. Many of them passed through this fort since it was a gathering spot for exportation.
The fort was originally built by the Portuguese who were the first European’s to sail down the coast. They were interested in gold and ivory and later traded in palm oil, and pepper. The built the fort to protect their interests from other European nations who wanted to follow in their footsteps. But then another “commodity” developed that brought even more wealth than gold – slaves.
Our trip to the castle took about 90 minutes, which was about 30 minutes each way more than we were led to believe it would be. On the way there we it was interesting to see so many people walking beside the road carry things on their head – mostly woman, I might add. We must have passed hundreds of them walking to who knows where. The country is so poor and the homes all tiny and in shambles.
This plaque is just inside the entrance of the fort.
We also had to pass a couple security checkpoints. At the first one we came to officers walked up to our car and saw the video camera on the back seat and asked in an accusing voice “What were you shooting? – Get out of the car.” I got out with our videographer, Diana and they called us over the office. “Show me what were you shooting…Why were you shooting? …Do you have papers for shooting?…What are you doing?… Where are your from?” After seeing the video and becoming satisfied, not happier, just satisfied, the intimidator lectured us on not shooting in security areas, which we didn’t do in the first place, and let us go. At the next check point and on the way back we kept all cameras away and out of sight, just in case.
At the security checkpoints and the one toll stop hawkers would swarm the cars, though this shot isn't the best representation. When they come up to your window and you raised a camera they we show you that they were not well pleased with that.
People in West Africa seem to have real hang-ups about getting there photos taken by tourists. This is especially true along the high traffic areas of cities. People who were off the beaten pass people were fine and fun, but there is definitely some resentment going on their. I can only forgive them. If I had been placed there (thank you Lord) I would most likely be that way too. When we returned to Takoradi we bought some local music for the video taping we did and decided to do our closing shot out on the corner, certainly away from any locals and an older man came up and started giving us a hard time about shooting. Why? I have no idea. What these people do not realize that they are doing themselves a disservice. If tourists are given a hard time about taking photos it leaves a bad taste in the mouth, to a certain extent. Then tourists go home and do not speak as well of their visit which drives potential tourists away. There were SO MANY photo opportunities in the last two ports – SO, SO MANY – but I hardly took any because of the way people reacted when I asked politely for permission. Now, I did leave those places having wonderful experiences, but the shame is that it could have been so much better. I would have loved to have had an even better story to tell.
The city of Elmina looked very interesting and there were a couple other places we wanted to visit but just didn’t have the time. They had a fisherman’s warf that from a far looked like it would have been a great place to visit.
Just a very small view of what is a very big, bustling and jam-packed fishing harbor which is actually down the waterway to the left. This was taken from the fort.
Fort St. George was interesting painful to see when you consider what took place there. But it is hostory and we all know that history is often tragic, but we should still see it, learn about it and learn from it.
The inner courtyard of Fort St. George. The officers resided on the upper levels and the slaves on the lower. When the fort was originally built to protect the Portuguese traders and their goods that they were trading and had traded for from other European traders following in their footsteps. But then things changed...
I hired my own guide a young man named Francis. He was a delightful gentleman and very proud and good at what he was doing. He took us through where all the lady prisoners were held. Of course, it must have been deplorable.
Francis, our guide. Articulate, enthusiastic, well rehearsed... A fine young man. We are on the top level of the fort.
Then there was a room where they would keep the people who rebelled. It was like a sweat box. Up to 30 went in at a time. Nobody ever came out alive. Once all had perished other slaves would drag you out. It was more than sad.
The symbol above the door said it all. No food, no water, no ventilation. Just a filthy room with a little ledge for a few at a time to lean against while you await your fate. The window on the right served the cell next door which punished their own, which was very well ventilated. The door to the cell was a series of crossed bars with just enough air flow not to suffocate them.
When it was time for the slaves to be loaded they passed through a small passageway, down a ladder and the into row boats that would take them out to the boats that would take them across the seas.
A view from the little passageway out of the fort where slaves would then proceed down a ladder and walk a short distance to awaiting row boats. The last time they would ever set for on their homeland.
Can’t even imagine how terrible that must have been. As many horrific historic places I have visited in the world I can never even begin to comprehend how terrible people can be to their fellow man…
From the fort to the bay where the slave ships anchored to await their cargo.
Two more African ports to go until we cross the pond… But first, three relaxing days at sea for our guests.
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